THE PLANNING BEGINS… 2023
No sooner had we gotten back from Patagonia we started planning our next adventure- these things take some time! Because of some flight changes and rebookings from our last trip we had quite of bit of credit that we needed to book by March 2024 so we needed to start making some decisions.
Our first thought was to go to Panama- it’s on our list of potential home bases if we decide to go full time expat. But we’d still have money on our credit that we might not be able to use and we hate to leave money on the table like that…so we started looking further…and for more adventure!
So we decided that our next trip would be Iceland. I think it’s on every adventurer’s bucket list and it certainly is on ours! We decided on summer so we’d get to see the most of the country, even though we probably wouldn’t see the Northern Lights (also on our list). So dates were chosen and tickets were purchased. A good step one.
Like Patagonia, we thought about a planned tour with a rental car and hotels pre-booked for us, but ultimately we really like having control over our schedules and destinations, and the flexibility to alter them on a whim. And the best way to control our adventure is the way we know best- rent our own RV and do whatever the heck we want to do.
You need to know that Iceland- while much more developed then Patagonia- still has a lot of very rugged roads called “F” roads. The name F-road comes from the Icelandic word fjalla, which means “mountain”, and they require 4×4 vehicles to access them- there are fines for driving on them in standard cars, probably because of the difficulty and cost of rescue from them.
Iceland seems to have a well developed rental RV business, and mini-vans, cartop tents, large vans and traditional RVs are readily available. Not cheap, but available if you begin planning early. 4×4 vehicles on the other hand, are harder to find and more expensive when you do find them. You also need to think about which F roads you want to drive and the difficulty of those roads- there are some that any 4×4 can manage, but there are others that require a heavy duty off road vehicle capable of river crossings and very rough terrain.
We, of course, wanted to get a small 4×4 camper. Not a super heavy duty one, but one that we could take up some of the less difficult F roads for some exploring- we’ve heard the interior is just gorgeous and we want to see it. So in February 2024 we focused on finding one that was still available. It took a while, with many emails back and forth with different companies, but ultimately we made a deposit with Camper Iceland for a “turtleback” camper similar in size to Ferdinand the RV we used in Patagonia. No bathroom but we’re ok with that. It will cost more than a 2WD RV, but we felt like we got a good price for the added adventure experience we will get. So the dollar/experience ratio is great!
Itinerary
| Day Number | Location ofCamp Spot | To Do |
| Day 1 –RV & Supplies Reykjavik Geothermal power plant | HveragerdiReykjamork2.000pp | Arrive in Iceland at 9:30 AM, pick up RV. Bonus grocery store in Keflavik Reykjavik:Hallgrímskirkja church pg 94, Walk along the waterfront: Harpa Concert Hall, Sun Voyager sculpture, Old Harbor area pg 100 Leave by 3:15 to drive to Hellisheidi Power Plant (40’) Closes at 5pm, pg 114 Dinner at Olverk in Hveragerdi, microbrewery & pizza pg 202 |
| Day 2 – The Classic Golden Circle | Flúðir camp2.200pp | Backtrack on Hwy 1 to turn right on 435 (Nesjavellir), left on 360, right on 36, pg 179 The big 3:Thingvellir NP (Unesco World Heritage Site) – rift/gorge between the tectonic plates. Pay to park with cc. Lunch or ice cream at Efstidalur II, family owned dairy farm Geysir Geothermal area – the Strokkur erupts about every 10’ Gullfoss waterfall Secret Lagoon – oldest pool, rustic, $26pp, Secret Lagoon Iceland – Secret Lagoon Iceland OR Hrunalaug hot tub |
| Day 3 – Thjórsárdalur Valley | HellaGaddstadaflatir2.450pp | Get going early – careful, slow driving and some hikes Hjálparfoss waterfall Stong parking lot – longhouse from the Viking era & 30’ hike along the road to Gjáin Drive to the Gljásteinn Hólaskógur Hostel, park, then hike 1–1.5 hours to the waterfall Háifoss, Iceland’s third tallest waterfall, and Granni waterfall. (i think it’s possible to drive all the way to Haifoss with a 4×4) Longish slow drive to campsite (if time: turn left off Hwy 26 on either 268 or 272->271 for gravel experience into Hella) |
| Day 4 – Waterfalls and Volcanic Beaches on South Coast pg 204 | Vik OR go 55’ furtherKirkjubæjarklaustur, to camp at Kleifar- scenic!750pp | Hvolsvollur Lava Center, $32, or could just do lobby & free WC (skippable?) Seljalandsfoss waterfall- can walk behind the waterfall so be prepared to get wet!, pay parking lot off Hwy 249Gljúfrabúi – can drive (or hike?) north to visit this falls which is a hidden gem, for those that are more adventurous, can be slippery! *Staff pick* Keep driving on Hwy 249 to go into Thorsmork, expect slow going and river crossings. Hike up Valahnukur trail from Husadalur (Volcano Huts), come back via Langidalur for easier descent. Back to Hwy 1 – Driving past Eyjafjoll mountain range with Eyjafjallajokull and Myrdalsjokull glaciersEyjafjallajökull Erupts exhibition, shorter & cheaper option to Lava Center? Seljavallalaug is one of Iceland’s oldest and most stunning public swimming pools, 15’ hike, unstaffed, rustic, some say gross water. (skippable?) Skogafass waterfall, can hike up the Skoga river for 26 more waterfalls (out & back, turn around when you want). Skorar folk museum?? 2800ISK pp Sólheimajökull glacier – allow 1hr, 15’ walk from parking lot to tip of glacier Abandoned plane on Sólheimasandur Beach (skippable?) Dyrhólaey peninsula has amazing views, .5m walk to lighthouse, Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach, basalt formations, sea stacks, puffins?, Reynisdrangar Cliffs, Hálsanefshellir Cave Vik – if late, can camp here. or good town for supplies. Fjaorargljufur canyon – 10’ drive on gravel road to gorge hollowed out by the Fjaora River, 1.5m hike. (if late, can go to campsite & do this the next morning) Kirkjugólf (Church floor) near campsite – the tops of basalt columns emerging just above ground and looking like a man-made floor |
| Day 5 – Vatnajökull NP | Svinafelli2.300pp | Dverghamrar, a small canyon of impressive and unusual hexagonal basalt columns. Skaftafell NP – 750 ISK per vehicle, a lot to do here, check the visitor center first.Hike to the Svartifoss waterfall is 5.5km loop, moderate. Add on the Sjónarnípa viewpoint hike for a view of the Skaftafellsjokul glacier and the glacial lagoon. (7k?) |
| Day 6 – Glacier Lagoon & East Fjords pg 330 | NeskaupstaðurCampEast2.000pp | Fjallsarlon glacier lagoon – smaller, less crowded, can hike up onto a ridge to see glacier, boat ride $70pp for 1.5hr or $220pp for boat/glacier hike/jeep ride. Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon – bigger but more people, boat tours also available. Diamond Beach – across road, icebergs shine like diamonds 4.25hr drive to campsite – into Fjords area, hugs the coast, Hofn – harbor-side restaurants, biggest option for gas & supplies. Djupivogur – town known for its hospitality, focus on nature conservation and arts, small quaint town, Eggs of Merry Bay. Petra’s Stone Collection in Stoovarfjordur – 2.000pp, rock collection at a house Faskruosfjordur – French influence in the small coastal town. |
| Day 7 – Lagarfljot lakeSeydisfjordur | Seydisfjordur Camping Site2.450pp | Egilsstadir – capital of East, stock up on groceries Lagafijot (pg 321) a long and narrow lake home to a worm. The Henigfoss waterfall is on the southeastern tip of lake; seen from parking lot but 1 hr hike to reach the top Seydisfjorour – one of the most enchanting villages in Iceland; colorful houses, arts & crafts stores, artistic corner of the country. Have the afternoon to wander and look around. Town walking tour on pg 324. Hike Bjolfur mtn – 1.5hr up, 1hr down. |
| Day 8 – DettifossLake Myvatn | Heidarbaer Campsite1.700ppswim pool, 2 hot tubs | Drive back across mountain pass to join ring road; fill up with gas in Egilsstadir. Optional side trip to Studlagil canyon (hwy 923 off of 1) Dettifoss waterfall. (pg 316). The most powerful in all of Europe! A short walk on south canyon on a smaller trail is the Selfoss waterfall. Lake Myvatn! Krafla volcano – caldera. Active geothermal region with mud springs. Krafla geothermal power station is a staff choice. Leirhnjukur is an active volcano/volcanic cone. 15’ walk each way along a boardwalk you can see bubbling mud. Viti crater – stunning bright blue lake in the centerNamaskaro pass – just outside Myvatn. “Martian-like” terrain. (pg 310)Hverfell crater – Rick Steves page 306 – hike takes about 20 minutes and is not too steepSkutustaoir – “lunar-like” craters – One star per Rick (pg 304)walk along the crater trailDimmuborgir lava formations – fantasyland of spectacular pillars and crenellated formationsOn the northwest shore – Sigurgeir’s Bird Museum – the entire area is famous for bird watching. Myvatn Nature Baths (3 stars, pg 308). $112 Premium swimming pond. Sounds wonderful! Also OPEN LATE. Can do in the evening at the end of the day. Not too luxurious or fancy – just right per Rick. Reservation? Namajfall Geothermal area (p.309) – called Hverir and Hverarond – see NV itinerary last paragraph – fumaroles, bubbling ponds, Explore more of Lake Myvatn. Jokulsargljufur National ParkHijooaklettar rock formation – can explore with an easy hike.Asbyrgi Canyon – horse-shoe shaped canyonGrenjadarstadur – Iceland’s largest turf houses, cultural center (Bodien’s recommended), off 87 north before campsite |
| Day 9 – Explore North Iceland, Whale Watching | Hamrar, just south of Akureyri2.350ppgood facilities | Head to Husavik – WHALE WATCH!!!! Gentle Giants. Godafoss – “Waterfall of the Gods” – among the most beautiful waterfalls in the country. Akureyri – unofficial capital of North Iceland. There is a lot to see in the town – consider stopping and strolling along the historic town center. *staff pick* lunch by the harbor. |
| Day 10 – Trollaskagi, Herring, Turf and seals | Hvammstangi Campground1.500pp | Leaving Akureyri, 2 options: straight shot on Hwy 1, 60m, 1 hr OR drive the Trollaskagi Peninsula, Hwy 82->76, 115m, 2.5hr + museum time. Herring Era Museum in Siglufjordur pg 293 Turn right on Hwy 75 (it eventually heads south) to the Glaumbaer Museum – turf farm & Iceland history. Stay south on 75 back to Hwy 1 South of Blounduos, left on Hwy 715 to go to Kolugljufur canyon, waterfall. Back to Hwy 1 then quick right turn on 711 to drive the peninsula for Hvitserkur rock (elephant or troll rock) and seal colonies |
| Day 11 – Westfjords | Tungudalur, outside of Isafyordur2.450pp | 4.75 hour drive today Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft in Hólmavík hot spring Hörgshliðarlaug, a small pool on the edge of the quiet Mjóifjörður Arctic Fox Centre in Súðavík, just around the corner from Ísafjörður. |
| Day 12 – Waterfall & Bird cliffs | Skordum1.500ppno showers | Dynjandi waterfall – epic staircase falls with trail that goes right to the base. Látrabjarg bird cliffs – puffins, western-most point, bit of an effort to get to but cliffs are like none other in Iceland Hellulaug hot spring, very near camp site |
| Day 13 – Snæfellsnes Peninsula | The Freezer Hostel & Cultural Center, Rif$43USD | Catch ferry to Stykkishólmur, beautiful fjord crossingBaldur – Eimskip Seatours – Ferry operator, approx $200, 3.5hrs, 0900am Stykkisholmur: Secret Life of Walter Mitty filmed here, groceries, port townBest restaurant: Sjávarpakkhúsið, a beautifully restored fish packaging house that now serves up fresh Icelandic seafood Berserkjahraun lava field, an under-the-radar gem of a lava fieldKirkjufell, touted as being Iceland’s most photographed mountain. Live music at Freezer on M, W and Sat nights |
| Day 14 – Snæfellsjökull NP | Husafell2.000pp | Snæfellsnes Peninsula and NPThe Ultimate Guide to Snæfellsnes Peninsula | Go Campers Skardsvik beach (golden sand)Svortuloft lighthouse (orange)Saxholl craterDjupalonssandur beachVatnshellir lava cave, tour is 45’, $65USDLondrangar, spires, short photo stop or some trails along coastlineArnastapi to Hellnar hike – small cafe in Hellnar for halfway stopRauðfeldsgjá Gorge – massive cleft in the tall cliffs with enough space to walk inside for a little bit in river, slipperyBudakirkja – the black churchYtri Tunga beach – seals, but have to cross rocks to see themRauðamelsölkelda and Ölkelduvatn (further on), a natural mineral water spring (carbonated)Gerduberg Cliffs – basalt columns, trails to the topLandbrotalaug hot pot – small but deep hot springsEldborg Crater – volcanic crater rising above lava field, trail out to it is 1.5hr each way) |
| Day 15 | Buffer Day | Insert as needed |
| Day 16 | Buffer Day | |
| Day 17 | Flight out | Flight at 09:30am |